A Bridge Quite Close

The violin bridge is an amazing contraption. Like the first violins in the 16th century, they have hardly changed since then. Let’s look at how it works and how to care for it

The bridge is curved to mirror the curve of the fingerboard, with the higher side holding the G string.  Looking past the fancy curves, you’ll notice that the bridge basically has four holes. Each is beneath a string. Vibrations from the strings can’t go through the holes; they have to pass through the solid wood in the shape of a large X, as in the illustration. The sound vibrations are sent directly to the two feet at the bottom. This has the effect of blending the vibrations rather than allowing some frequencies to travel down one side or the other of the bridge.

The two feet are carved to perfectly match the curvature of the violin. This maximizes the transmission of those sound vibrations through the bridge’s feet as the two feet waddle very fast and send the sound into the top wooden plate of the violin. Someone knowledgeable has to carve the feet to fit each individual instrument. This fit doesn’t always happen for cheap instruments, or unadjusted bridges, or bridges that are warped or leaning. Such violins will work but their sound won’t pass into the wood of the violin efficiently, and this will affect the tone of the instrument.

Where the sound goes

There is a lot of tension on the wood of the violin. It is Continue reading A Bridge Quite Close

Fine Tuners, and direct concert/workshop signup

New to fiddle-online?  Click “Continue reading –>” and scroll down to learn more about an easy way to sign up for your first guest online concert/workshop!

First, let’s talk a bit about fine tuners.  Nearly everyone uses fine tuners, the little knobs on the tailpiece of the violin that you turn to slightly tune up or down.

Some plastic tuners come with tuners on every string while some players use one only on the E string. Why is this?

The strings exert upwards of 40 lbs per square inch of pressure on the bridge and the upper plate of the violin, and much of this comes from the E string. Usually made of steel, the E is the tightest string, and is the most difficult one to tune by peg. It also doesn’t go out of tune much. For these reasons, most people like to use the fine tuner for this string.

The lower strings Continue reading Fine Tuners, and direct concert/workshop signup

Fiddle or Violin?

Before reading our article, check out this week’s tip on how better to use fiddle-online!

#1.  Do you find some of the playalong tracks to be too fast?  Every page on fiddle-online with interactive sheet music also includes a listening track and a playalong track. The listening track gives you a feel for the tune. The playalong track is moderately paced to help you start playing through the tune, once you’ve learned some phrases.

But what if the playalong track seems too fast? In that case, focus on the orange buttons — the self-repeating audio for each unique phrase in the tune. These are always slow and manageable. Once you feel you have control of one of these phrases, or several of them, you can try to sew them together by using the playalong track. Even if it’s too fast at that moment, you can still get a lot out of trying to play the phrase you know at the place where it belongs. For example if you learn phrase A1, then play at least the beginning of it with the playalong track, listen as A2 is played, then jump in again when A1 comes back (usually it’s the third phrase as well). Keep track of the beat notes to give yourself a hold of the phrase rather than just try to string all the individual notes together. You can do it! And it’s very rewarding.

Fiddle or Violin?

It’s an age-old question — what’s the difference between a fiddle and a violin? The answer involves a little history and some cultural context.

Some research shows that bowed instruments were invented in Turkey and that the original fiddles were brought to western Europe by returning Crusaders. The Arab rabab and rebec apparently developed in Europe into the fithele (fiddle), in China into the erhu, and can be traced to other similar instruments elsewhere.

In the 14th century, viols appeared in Europe, and in the 16th century the modern violin was invented in Italy. Its sound was so good that it quickly took over from the fiddle where that old instrument was being played. In fact, the violins made by Amati back then have never really been improved upon.
Local music from many European cultures is still called fiddle music because of the old instrument, the fiddle, though the violin is the official name of the instrument. Classical music refers only to the violin, though many players familiarly speak of their fiddles. In many circles, whether folk or classical, the two words are both used.

Both words, the fiddle and the violin, may have a Latin root — Vitula was the Roman goddess of joy and victory.

The bottom line is that there’s no difference between a violin and a fiddle. But if you walk into a violin shop, you might be treated differently if you say you play fiddle rather than violin. It depends on the knowledge of the people who work there, but it’s not uncommon for shops to assume that fiddlers need flatter bridges and cheaper steel strings, because of their presumptions about what fiddle music is. For some fiddlers, that may work, but generally, we all want the best sound we can get, from decent strings and properly set up instruments.

Those who would like to explore the “local music from different cultures,” which is what fiddle music really is, may like to read our article, “What’s in a fiddle style?”  If you’re a classical violinist interested in learning fiddle, you may find some interesting points to help you with the transition in our article, “Fiddle for the Classically Trained.”

©2020 Ed Pearlman

“When Should I…” (#1) — 7 Tips About Equipment

Here are some guidelines — When To take care of 7 aspects of your fiddle “equipment”. Keep in mind, though, that 90% of the music and sound you produce has to do with the player, not the equipment!

Are you wondering when to… Put on more rosin? Clean rosin off strings? Change strings? Rehair your bow? Look for a new shoulder rest? Look for a new bow? Look for a new violin?

When should I…

1 …put more rosin on

Short answer: when you’re not getting the sound you expect

A fairly good rule of thumb is to add rosin for ever hour or so of actual playing time. Don’t put too much on, though, just a bit of a rub at each end with maybe two passes, down and up, along the length of the hairs, more if you haven’t done it for a while. If you see a cloud of white puff up as you play, you’ve put way too much on! Whip your bow through the air a few times to get rid of the excess, but try not to bang it into anything or anybody as you do!

2 …clean rosin off the strings and fiddle

Short answer: every time you’re done playing

Take a lintless cloth and wipe the rosin off the strings and the violin. The buildup of rosin only chokes the quality of your sound, and if it piles up on the instrument it will deteriorate the finish. No need to use any cleaner on the strings, just rub the strings where you’ve played on them, until the annoying squealing (more annoying the longer you’ve waited to clean them!) stops and your cloth slides silently over the strings. Rubbing rosin off the violin can be done with the cloth too, but once in a while you can use a drop of polish/cleaner made for violins; just don’t get it on the strings too!

Continue reading “When Should I…” (#1) — 7 Tips About Equipment

Changing Strings

Like tuning, changing strings is a necessary evil! Let’s talk about what to aim for and what to watch out for, as you change strings. We’ll start with the 7 Ideas to Keep in Mind, talk about How to Change Strings, and then go into the Whys & Wherefores for those interested.

7 Ideas to Keep in Mind

1. Change only one string at a time – the bridge can actually fall down if you take all the strings off at once*.  Of course, if you break a string, you may only need to replace that one.  Try not to let strings go longer than a year before changing them — you may not notice them losing their vigor but you certainly will notice how nice they sound when you change them!

2. Roll the strings neatly onto the correct pegs, with one layer of string**. The more neatly the string is rolled on, the more likely you’ll have enough space to Continue reading Changing Strings

Shoulder Rests

Most fiddlers and violinists use a shoulder rest, but some struggle with finding the right one or adjusting it to their needs.

There are players who prefer not to use one, usually for reasons to do with convenience or authenticity: Old-style fiddlers didn’t use them, poor players couldn’t afford them, it’s more natural to just pick up the fiddle and play than to stop and attach an accessory first, and some say they feel the vibrations better without a rest.  Sometimes I go without it myself, if I need to quickly pick up the fiddle and play, but it doesn’t feel good to do it for long, or I have to keep adjusting my position so I don’t overuse certain muscles and get a cramp or strain.

I recommend that students use shoulder rests for two main reasons:  better physical health, and to allow the left hand to do its job.

Health-wise, it’s better for your body to play with both shoulders kept down in a natural position, and for the chin to stay back in its normal position rather than jut forward to accommodate the chinrest. Neither shoulder nor chin should apply pressure to squeeze the fiddle in place; that’s a recipe for muscle strain and misalignment.

As to allowing the left hand to do its job, take a look at the article about the joints of the left hand and arm, called “Controllers of the Left.”  Without a shoulder rest, the left hand tends to feel it needs to help hold the fiddle up, and this usually involves collapsing the wrist to use the palm as a support. Some traditional players do this, though one constantly touring fiddler told me she taught herself to straighten her left hand because her hand was getting numb — the collapsed wrist was cutting down on circulation. There’s an interesting theory that before the chinrest was invented (1820), players kept their left hand in one place, with the thumb halfway up the neck, allowing them to move up or down the fingerboard using the thumb as anchor, but that is a whole other technique of playing.

With a shoulder rest, Continue reading Shoulder Rests